Technology for the production of perfume liquids. The whole truth about perfume production Factory for the production of perfume fragrances

Properly selected perfume is an important accessory for any person, which can tell a lot about him. To choose a perfume to your liking, it is important to know how perfume is made in different countries and what are the features of its manufacture.

French perfumery – elegant classics

Speaking about the history of the creation and production of perfume, one cannot fail to mention the ancestor of this art - France. This country is the most famous manufacturer of perfumes and many associate it with high quality. The creators of French perfumes know all the secrets of making perfumes, because their fragrances are the most complex, multi-stage and have a lot of components in their composition. Thanks to this, the same aroma is felt completely differently on the skin of each person. The most famous fragrances produced in France are presented in our online store - this, and many others.

Perfumes made in Italy – luxury in all its forms

France is undoubtedly a leader in the production of perfumes, but the question of which countries produce perfumes better than others cannot be answered definitively. Perfumes made in Italy are famous for their deep spicy aromas, which are incredibly popular in all countries of the world. Few people are unaware of such world-famous brands as , and , which are leaders in the production of Italian perfumes. The famous perfume made in Italy:, and many other great scents are present in the catalogs.

American perfume - everyday chic

Perfume production is a relatively young activity in America. Only in the middle of the 20th century did the whole world become aware of such perfume manufacturers as the brand, which gave the world wonderful aromas and an equally popular brand called. Nowadays, American-made aromas can be recognized by several characteristics:

• Longevity - It is important for Americans that their perfume does not wear off throughout the working day.
• The bright sound of the aroma - it should be felt quite strongly, because it is desirable that the aroma declares the presence of the one who wears it.
• Ease of use - the style and rhythm of life of Americans dictates its own rules: perfume should be in a convenient container, preferably with a spray bottle.

Some American-made fragrances from the catalog of our online store correspond to all these characteristics:, and many others.

Invincible and legendary "New Dawn"

Story Russian perfumes is inextricably linked with the fate of the Moscow factory "New Zarya". This enterprise was opened almost 150 years ago - at first, the Frenchman Henri Brocard started the production of toilet soap. Business took off, and in 1870, Brocard colognes, which quickly gained popularity, appeared on the shelves. The first legendary Russian perfume for women was “Persian Lilac” - both Moscow and St. Petersburg were fragrant with it.

Brocard's factory opened stores and became a supplier to the imperial court, turning into a real empire of fragrances. For the production of the first Russian perfumes We used both ingredients purchased in France, as well as essences and extracts of our own making. To this day, Monsieur Brocard’s working archive is kept at the factory and serves many generations of perfumers.

After the October Revolution, the brainchild of Henri Brocard was nationalized and renamed into a state soap factory - in those harsh years, the struggle for hygiene worried much more than the ephemeral values ​​of high perfumery. However, the soap factory was lucky with the director - Komsomol member A. Zvezdov decided that it was no good to waste Brocard’s huge reserves of expensive raw materials and bottles and, hiring the French perfumer Auguste Michel, who sympathized with the ideals of the revolution, resumed the production of Russian, or more precisely, Soviet perfumes. The leaders approved the proposed name of the factory - "New Dawn". Monsieur Michel creatively used Brocard's legacy: he not only composed his own compositions for perfumes, but also gave a second life to formulas preserved from tsarist times. Yes, absolutely legendary Russian perfume"Red Moscow" was a fragrance invented by Henri Brocard for Alix Romanova, the wife of the last emperor, and was originally called "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet".

The fragrant book of the glorious history of the New Dawn boasts many pages. The prolific factory, which essentially knew no competition, regularly pampered the residents of the Soviet Union with new products, and, in addition, gained international recognition. Such Russian perfume, like “Lights of Moscow”, “Fouette”, “Zlato Scythians”, “Manon”, “Pearls”, “Stone Flower” are remembered by many today. The traditional, signature scents of “New Dawn” are high-quality classic perfumes, predominantly of a floral nature, with woody and, less often, amber-oriental notes.

The factory policy was principled - in production Russian perfumes Predominantly Soviet raw materials should be used, produced from plants growing on the territory of the USSR or developed by domestic chemists. This is what primarily distinguished the face of the product. The leading “nose” during the heyday of the factory was Pavel Ivanov, considered one of the best perfumers of the Soviet school.

The perestroika transformations did not pass Novaya Zarya by - the factory was going through difficult times. However, the flagship of Russian perfumery survived, and its third birth was again not without French help. Thanks to the financial participation of Parisian investors, the Moscow plant, which since 2004 has received the name Nouvelle Etoile, today produces several dozen Russian perfumes. These include both long-loved works and new items developed with the direct participation of the French side - “White Tea”, “Beauty of the Night”, “Follow Me”. The gallery of new perfume classics may include the following: Russian perfume, like “Kuznetsky Most”, “Sweetheart” and “Naughty Man”. A distinctive feature of modern Russian perfumes Nouvelle Etoile is a variety of choices at moderate prices.

The modest charm of "Angelika Varum"

Concern "Kalina" (formerly "Ural Gems") is another venerable player in the domestic perfume market. In absolute terms, it could be called the second most important, but, unfortunately, for the last few years, perfumery has not been a priority area of ​​​​Kalina's work.

Although back in the late 90s, the company’s product range included about 20 colognes, perfumes and eau de parfums. Moreover, it was Kalina that organized the sensational competition for the best men's and women's fragrance of the year, Crystal Bouquet, intending to release the winning scents under its own brand. But this undertaking ended sadly - the French supplier let the factory down, and huge losses forced the project to be curtailed.

It is curious that at one time the factory in Yekaterinburg grew on the basis of the New Dawn unit evacuated during the Great Patriotic War. Today it is a diversified enterprise with foreign capital, producing a huge range of hygiene products and household chemicals.

In this diversity there was also a place for Russian perfumes- it is “Kalina” that produces the fragrance “Angelika Varum”, which has not lost popularity for many years, and is undoubtedly the most successful Russian “star” perfume. This is a delicate floral-fruity aroma with notes of green rose, lily of the valley, lilac and Tibetan musk. It has a continuation - lesser known, but also good powdery oriental Russian perfume"Angelika Varum Heart note", memorable thanks to the flair of iris and sandalwood.

A successful perfumery experiment by Kalina was the chypre-special evening perfume “Night Rain” - alas, today it is not on sale, the scent can only be found among collectors, like the watery-sea composition “Blue Lagoon”. But the concern produces the most famous and affordable Russian children's perfume - “Little Fairy”. This is a light perfume for beginner fashionistas, unobtrusive and refreshing with an accord of orange, rose and vanilla.

Russian perfumes - in cosmetic chains

Network companies Faberlic and Mirra Lux have become a noticeable force in the market in recent years Russian perfumes. Faberlic, which made its reputation on innovative oxygen technology, put its name on a world-famous name by starting a collaboration with French perfumer Pierre Bourdon, author of such famous compositions as Davidoff Cool Water, Escada Magnetism, Dior Dolce Vita. Strictly speaking, it is not clear whether Faberlic perfumes can be called Russian - they are created in France by a Frenchman from French raw materials. However, it is the Russian company that draws up briefs for Monsieur Bourdon and sells the result of his work to Russian women, which means that the products are aimed primarily at them.

In stock today Russian perfumes Faberlic - three main series of fragrances (youth collection, "Scents of Travel" and an exclusive collection), as well as fruit perfume You Nova Dream. Each series contains perfumes for different tastes - from green-woody to spicy-spicy.

The exclusive Faberlic collection can be called an attempt to create the first Russian selective perfumes - unique perfumes for discerning connoisseurs and collectors. This is a rather interesting project that deserves the attention of all perfume fans. It is important that, despite the valuable recipe, Faberlic perfumes remain relatively inexpensive - the average price of an “exclusive” bottle is about $20, while usually selective fragrances are priced from $70 for 50 ml.

The Mirra Lux company was lucky to work with one of the best domestic perfumers of the “old school” - Alla Belfer. She passed away about a year ago. It was Alla Belfer who created the most successful perfumes from the Mirra range: “Veil”, “Shadow”, “No. 7”, “Decadence”, and, unfortunately, the perfume “Nema-Ya”, which is no longer in production (a unique woody-tea-incense composition), which can rightfully be called one of the best Russian perfumes last decades. Alla Belfer's Russian perfume for "Mirra" is the embodiment of the classical traditions of perfumery, wittily using modern ones and fulfilling its main task - to make a woman mysterious and desirable with the help of aroma.

According to independent experts, today there are about two dozen players on the Russian perfume market, and the share of sales of domestic fragrant products is about 20% of the total volume. Consumers vote with their noses - worthy examples Russian perfumes quickly become known at least in narrow circles of perfume fans. But the reality is that playing perfume is a rather expensive business, and you can do it, firstly, if you are an ardent fan of smells, and secondly, without counting on instant enrichment. That is why the domestic perfume market does not show any noticeable surges in activity.

Although from time to time something worthy of attention appears: for example, the Perfume Prestige company produces the first Russian perfumes with pheromones (JustLady magazine spoke in detail about perfumes with pheromones in the article: “”), and the manufacturer of natural cosmetics Green Mama launched promising Aliсia Milor. These mono-flavors, which have become deservedly popular, are now not produced, according to some sources, due to problems with raw material suppliers. However, fans Russian perfumes They hope and expect that they will not only get back their favorite scents, but will also surprise them with new products.

Olga Chern
Women's magazine JustLady

Close to the text translation from a French online economic journal.
A short photo tour of the Paco Rabanne factory, part of the Cosmetic Valley association, located in Chartres in France. Photos and comments about them tell about the key stages of perfume production.
Fragrances such as “Paco Rabanne pour homme”, “Nina”, “L’air du Temps”, and many other perfumes from brands belonging to the Puig group are matured in these impressive vats before being bottled. In addition to Puig, the Cosmetic Valley association produces Guerlain and Dior perfumes.
The Puig group produces Paco Rabanne and Nina Ricci perfumes at the Paco Rabanne plant. Most of the capacity is occupied by the production of the Nina fragrance, released in 2005. It turned out to be a real bestseller. Three million bottles were sold in 2006 alone. In the same year, Nina’s red apple took a huge share, as much as 3%, in the perfume market.
How much time does it take to create a formula?
Like thousands of other perfumes, Nina was born in a perfumer's laboratory. With rare exceptions, all brands producing cosmetics and perfumes turn to such specialized organizations.
The life of a fragrance begins with a technical specification that is sent to chemists. In a laboratory such as Créassence in Louveciennes, specialist perfumers work on creating a fragrance from two weeks to three months.

Raw materials.
A modern perfume chemist has approximately 500 types of raw materials of natural and synthetic origin. To create one fragrance, from 30 to 80 components are usually used. Prices for various raw materials are very different, for example, rose oil, depending on the quality, can cost up to 8,000 euros per kg, iris oil 9,000 euros per kg. The now banned bergamot costs around 60 euros per kg. Orange oil is considered the cheapest at a price of 10 - 12 euros per kg. Part of the raw materials for the production of concentrates is purchased in the historical capital of perfumery - Grasse.
During their work, perfumers create about 30 samples. 3 - 4 of them are offered to the client. If the client is satisfied, he places an order with the laboratory to produce a perfume concentrate called jus. What is not suitable for the customer remains within the walls of the laboratory, in the perfumer’s “table”. ( This is how some niche brands are born. approx. lane)

Jus concentrate.
In addition to actually creating the formula, the task of the laboratories also includes the production of perfume concentrate. Concentrates produced in the Creassence laboratory, working under the leadership of General Director Sylvie Jourdet, cost customers 50 - 60 euros per kg. But the most prestigious and expensive perfumes can cost up to 150 euros per kg at this stage of production.

Concentrates born in the laboratory are delivered to the production workshops of chemical plants. The Puig Group plant we inspected covers an area of ​​14,000 square meters. m. It was built in 1976 in Chartres, in the very middle of the Cosmetic Valley. 160 permanent and 25 temporary workers are busy at the stage of adding perfume concentrate to alcohol, standing, freezing, filtering, packaging and packaging the final product.

Every day, engineers at the Paco Rabanne plant receive dozens of concentrates, whose transformation into perfumes and eau de toilettes is planned depending on trade requests. Three people in charge of the manufacturing process manage to juggle thirty types of perfumes at the same time (not counting limited editions and seasonal editions) in order to fulfill the supply plan.

The most important manufacturing step is mixing the perfume concentrate with alcohol. Manufacturers are trying in every possible way to reduce the cost of their products. And, although they don’t talk about it, many manufacturers order semi-concentrates from different laboratories and mix them at the factory. The vat shown in the photo contains a ton of mixture, equivalent to 6,000 liters of perfume.

Preparation of the mixture accounts for 20 - 30% of the cost of perfume. Not a single operator knows how much, what and where he puts it; for laboratory assistants there are not names but numbered forms. Only three people at the plant know everything about the process.
A sample of the result of mixing the concentrate and alcohol is sent to a technical laboratory for preliminary analysis. The plant's six laboratory technicians test products at every stage of production, from raw materials to packaging, to ensure proper quality. Dermatological and cosmetological control is carried out, among other things.
The laboratory also works in direct contact with the marketing department, which is responsible for introducing new products to the market. At the same time, the stability of the products is checked to ensure that the stated shelf life is met.
The production process is continuous, so strict recording, control and visibility of what is happening is important so that workers of different shifts can control the process.

In a special room, with a constant temperature of 15C °, mixtures of concentrates and alcohol are infused for 15 to 20 days. Every day the liquid in the containers is stirred for an hour. At the same time, up to 280,000 liters of fragrant liquid are infused at the plant. Different vats hold from 500 to 6,000 liters.

Production management and materials accounting have been fully computerized since 2005. (In the photo, a worker is about to write out dye for perfume.)

Alcohol and dye
Perfume is colored by adding colored alcohol. The Paco Rabanne plant uses beet alcohol from l’Aube ( collective farm "Rassvet" approx. lane). About 24,000 liters of alcohol are consumed per week.

One of the important stages of production is filtration. It is necessary to eliminate impurities that could spoil the appearance of the finished perfume. 25 filters reliably hold everything unnecessary that disrupts the structure and ideal appearance.

To increase the stability of the mixture of alcohol and concentrate, another important procedure is necessary - freezing (Glacage). The alcohol-containing liquid is cooled to 0 C° in order to precipitate poorly soluble substances such as vegetable waxes in order to obtain the clearest possible product.

Perfume needs to be packaged. The components of the packaging are glass bottles, cardboard boxes, sprays and many other details that are unique to each brand of perfume. To meet tight delivery times, the plant is forced to store large stocks of packaging. Many packaging options, for example for limited editions, are produced one-time. Frequent additional supplies of raw materials are impossible in this industry. Therefore, the Paco Rabanne plant fills warehouses with glass and cardboard for 3 to 6 months of uninterrupted operation.

The bottles come from glass factories located in Normandy. Paco Rabanne's main suppliers are the famous brands Saint Gobain, Pochet, and Bormioli.

Depending on the complexity of the bottle, the production line can fill and package from 1,000 to 1,600 bottles per hour, that is, 30,000 bottles per day. Nina's unstable glass bottles are stored in stands throughout their entire journey from the manufacturer to the assembly line.
The Paco Rabanne plant has six automatic bottling and packaging lines and four semi-automatic ones. 60 people work on all ten conveyors. Four of them monitor the functioning of the packaging line.
The lines operate 24 hours a day. Six dispensers fill the bottles with liquid. The seventh dispenser is the controller, checking whether the bottle is filled enough. To produce Nina, the lines were set up for 30, 50 and 80 milliliter bottles.

Thousands of sprays are rolled onto bottles automatically. Sprayers are usually supplied by Valois, a leader in the manufacture of spray systems.
Once the bottles are filled, the manufacturing process speeds up. Seconds count.

The build quality also needs to be carefully monitored. The spray bottle must be checked. All 100% of released bottles are checked.

The filled and rolled bottle is grabbed by a robot at the exit from the conveyor and placed in a box. “Nina” has a fairly simple bottle that allows it to produce 40 bottles per minute. If the packaging is more complex. it may require additional operations, which will slow down the production process.
Next, the boxes are manually laid out into boxes. The boxes are collected on pallets and automatically transported to the warehouse. Two unique automatic conveying machines are capable of serving ten conveyors simultaneously, so they are very expensive, approximately 200,000 euros.
The last step is marking before sending. The boxes will be loaded onto trucks with trailers and transported to retail chains in France or around the world.
Finished products are not stored at the Paco Rabanne factory; they are sold directly from the wheels.

Paco Rabanne is not the only such factory in the region. It is just one of 130 businesses that are members of the Cosmetic Valley association, created in Chartres in 1994. The association unites the largest manufacturers in this industry. It provides 16,000 jobs in the region and has an annual turnover of 2.5 billion euros.

The proximity of the association's enterprises to each other allows the creation of additional services. For example, the development and modeling of bottles takes place centrally, at one enterprise, meeting the needs of all partners. This is necessary at a time when up to 450 new products are created annually, and their life on the market is becoming shorter and shorter.

Saving time at all stages from formula development to logistics is becoming the most important factor in the competitive struggle. Therefore, the influence of the Cosmetic Valley Association on the industry as a whole is increasing every year.

Photo Journal du Net / Agathe Azzis
Based on materials from Le Journal du Net
Copyright Benchmark Group - 69-71 avenue Pierre Grenier, 92517 Boulogne Billancourt Cedex, FRANCE

The history of perfume creation dates back to Ancient Egypt. It took the Egyptians several centuries to figure out how to extract scent from fruits and flowers.

Nowadays, perfume production is a fairly simple matter. The perfumer only needs to create a recipe for a mixture that will have a beautiful aroma. The work of a perfumer is not a science, but rather an art. This requires not knowledge of the laws of physics and chemistry, but the correct sequence of attempts. The aesthetic taste and intuition of the perfumer are of great importance.

According to the perfume recipe, in order to make perfume, you first need to create a mixture, which is then dissolved in the highest quality alcohol. To produce perfume you need 30 parts of alcohol. The mixture also requires a small amount of water. The prepared mixture takes several weeks to mature. After which it is cooled and filtered. This allows the liquid to remain transparent for the remaining time. The color of a perfume is influenced by the color of the aromatic substances used. However, recently dyes have begun to be added to perfume. To ensure that the aroma of perfumes lasts even when they are opened, a little antioxidant is added to them.

Thus, the most important process in the production of perfume is the creation of the so-called perfume composition, which consists of mixing various aromatic substances and chemical compounds in certain proportions. To prepare one complex perfume composition, it is necessary to use several dozen different components. For example, to create the composition of the “Red Moscow” perfume, 34 fragrant substances were required.

To make perfumes, certain essential oils are used, which are found in many plants. Essential oils are obtained from leaves, stems, flowers, roots, seeds, and fruits. All of them can be dissolved in alcohol, vegetable and animal fats, and partly even in hot water. Essential oils of plants, being at normal temperature, are transparent, easily mobile or viscous, colorless or yellow, green and brown liquids.

There are six main technologies for producing perfumes. The first of them is extraction with evaporating extractants. This requires a special apparatus, which is made of steel and discs that do not rust. They are installed directly one above the other. This allows the solvent to circulate freely and not crush the flowers. The resulting concentrate is distilled, resulting in a viscous product. It contains waxes, pigments and aromatic substances. This mixture is called a resinoid.

The most common method of obtaining essential oils is steam distillation. This method is also the simplest. It does not require expensive equipment. The resulting mixture of essential oil vapor and water is condensed and the oil is separated, and the distilled water is treated with activated carbon. It can also be re-distilled. However, sometimes using steam stripping, it is not possible to extract all the valuable components. In this case, the method of extraction with volatile solvents, including alcohol, is used. After which the used solvent is distilled off, first at atmospheric pressure, then under vacuum.

The pressing method is used to extract oil from citrus fruit peels. After pressing, the resulting essential oil is dried.

One of the oldest technologies is to obtain essential oil by heating. The oil that evaporates from plant flowers is absorbed into pure, odorless fat - this is the so-called enfleurage method. Pork or beef fat is applied in a thin layer to sheets of glass. The result is clean lipstick. The essential oil is extracted from it using a solvent, often alcohol is used. The solvent is then distilled off under vacuum.

To extract the scent from fragile flowers such as jasmine and tuberose, a method is used in which the fat is not heated, but the petals are smoothed onto a thick layer of fat and dipped in a special warm solution. Flowers with this method are alive for several days. The flowers are replaced several times until the fat is maximally saturated with essential oil.

The fat is also used for the maceration method. However, in this case, they take not animal fat, but vegetable fat. It is heated to 50-70 degrees, and then flowers are poured with it. After straining, such fat contains not only essential oils, but also pigments, wax and fatty oil. All this significantly reduces the quality of the resulting lipstick.

Detailed video:

For the production of natural perfumes, exclusively vegetable oil is used as preservatives. For example, in France, entire plantations of flower plants are grown, which are used exclusively for the production of perfumes.

The products of the perfume industry have long been part of the life of every person in our time. In addition to perfumes, these are a variety of cosmetics, and so necessary in daily use, soap or all kinds of creams that promote gentle skin care.

But most of us know only one, the consumer side of the perfume industry - famous brands of perfumes, colognes and other cosmetics. But what is the technological process? In this article we will try to cover such a broad topic as fully as possible and make the production process a little clearer.

The technological process of producing perfume products is divided into several stages. Let us make a reservation that before embarking on the process of directly creating a perfume composition, components are selected, which include essential vegetable oils and fats of animal origin, according to a pre-developed formula.

The first stage is the preparation of a perfume composition (preparing an infusion or perfume liquid). Perfume liquid consists of the perfume composition determined during the manufacturing process, water and rectified alcohol. Before continuing the production process, the perfume liquid is placed in a special stainless steel container, where it remains for a long time (on average, this period can last from three weeks to several months - it all depends on the composition), during which the products of plant origin are broken down and mixed with other components.

During the settling process, the perfume liquid is infused for a certain amount of time. This is a rather complex process, during which different parts of the perfume component of the composition interact, becoming a single whole and acquiring a stable harmonious aroma. After the infusion process is completed, it is the turn of filtration. At the filtration stage, the sediment that appeared during settling is removed. After the primary precipitate has been filtered, the liquid is placed in a special installation, where it is cooled, during which the precipitate falls out again. Next, the liquid goes through the final filtration process, is heated to room temperature and becomes a product ready for packaging. It is poured into sterile clean bottles, which are then rolled with a special pump. This process is called "capping", which, simply put, is similar in effect to the pasteurization process. Then a cap is put on the bottle and the packaging is cellophaneized accordingly.

A conscientious manufacturer maintains high technical requirements for its product and production in general. In order to maintain its image, any perfume company is obliged to control the quality of its products according to international standards and weed out defects at each production stage.

First of all, the perfume composition and the raw materials from which it is made must be of high quality - environmentally friendly and safe to use. Thus, at the final stage, the filtered liquid should turn out clean and transparent, without unnecessary impurities and sediment. If you suddenly notice that there is some sediment or particles of unknown origin at the bottom of the bottle, then most likely you have come across a defective product from an unscrupulous manufacturer or even a fake passed off as an original.

It must also be in perfect condition - from the bottle to the packaging itself. Everything must be hermetically sealed and not damaged.

A manufacturer who cares about both the consumer and his own image will not make mistakes and therefore tries to maintain international standards from production technology to the release of finished products. As a rule, workshops for the production of perfume products employ highly qualified specialists and people who strictly comply with technical safety requirements. Inside the premises there should also be not just order, but sterile cleanliness, without the presence of foreign odors and foreign elements.

In this way, an enterprise that produces perfume products is very similar to one that produces such an important product for every person as medicine. Workers of a good perfume factory, as in enterprises that are, are usually dressed in a special sterile white uniform. Therefore, when giving preference to one or another perfumery product, it is important to inquire in advance how well it has proven itself in the market. Not only your style, but also your health can depend on the quality of the perfume you choose.