What is cognac? What is cognac made from: production technology. Distillation equipment

Cognac is a special drink with millions of fans around the world. It comes with notes of wood, tobacco, vanilla, classic and prepared according to innovative recipes. There are many different cognacs, but the very understanding of this type of brandy is unshakable.

There are a lot of fans and for good reason. Cognac is the drink of the gods and true connoisseurs, but not when the purchase of this wonderful alcohol was unsuccessful. Nowadays there are a lot of fakes and so-called “scorched” alcohol. Everyone understands that good cognac cannot be cheap, but even among very expensive options there is a chance of running into a fake.

Such a mistake in choosing can cost not only a ruined evening, but also a good part of your own health. How to prevent such a mistake?

What is cognac, how is it different from brandy? Is it possible to make cognac yourself and, if so, how? So many questions, and all the answers are below.

A little history

In 1453, after the end of the Hundred Years' War, Charente, which produced wine in huge quantities for England, lost its consumers. Thus, supply suddenly begins to lose its demand.

As a result of the war, England was ousted from the mainland, and it was not possible to import wine across the sea. They simply deteriorated and lost their properties. Then the wines began to be distilled and supplied in this form. This drink became the prototype of modern brandy. However, its taste left much to be desired.

At the beginning of the seventeenth century, the development of the production of the familiar cognac began. It was then that more and more advanced moonshine stills were created, and people learned to correctly apply the experience gained. In the course of development, the French mastered the technology better than the inventors of the “storage method” themselves and began to develop this business.

At the beginning of the seventeenth century, the French actively studied and mastered the new drink. At the same time, it was noticed that storage in oak barrels has a beneficial effect on the taste of the drink and it can now be drunk in its pure form. During the hard work of creating cognac, they learned to separate the pure distillate and dilute it in the required proportions.

Already in the mid-nineteenth century, the drink gained recognition and wide distribution. Active related trade began: cognac production and glass production. Alcohol began to be bottled and imported.

In 1936, the law on controlled appellation of origin was approved.

Making cognac

The art of moonshine brewing in Russia has long found its fans and has settled warmly in the hearts of Russians. Moonshine is distilled in a variety of ways and according to various recipes, constantly improving and modernizing the recipe. However, there is a place for the classics, that is, classic alcohol.

Many wonderful drinks are made from ready-made moonshine, including cognac. The billet is kept in barrels, saturated with various additives and flavors, resulting in the same aromatic cognac. This article will tell you how cognac is made, how it is aged and how to achieve the best taste and aroma.

First things first

First, you should understand the technology of making cognac. Otherwise, it’s like making cognac. Only then can we talk about the versatility and diversity of recipes and cooking methods.

The basis of any cognac is cognac alcohol; it is almost odorless and colorless. It is obtained from the distillation of wine. So, the initial raw material for noble alcohol is the same mash.

Fruit or grape juice is fermented at a temperature no higher than twenty degrees, without access to oxygen. Wine yeast is used for this. The fact that the fermentation process has stopped and the raw material is ready for distillation can be understood by the cessation of gas evolution and the appearance of a characteristic precipitate.

After this, the resulting wine is sent for distillation. At this stage, the technology for producing cognac is no different from making moonshine. In a nutshell, during distillation, alcohol is separated from wine (the raw material).

Isolation of cognac alcohol

During distillation, all the separated alcohol is divided into three fractions: “head”, “body” and “tails”. For further work, only the “body” of everything received is used. The fact is that in the first vapors and in the “tails” not only alcohol is released, but also other impurities.

This happens because the boiling and evaporation temperatures of alcohols are different. Wine contains various alcohols, the task of distillation is to isolate pure cognac, without impurities.

The “head,” for example, (or this fraction is also called “pervak”) contains methane. And in the last fraction (in the “tails”) - fusel oils. Of course, this is not a complete list of harmful impurities contained in the first and last fractions, but this is quite enough to clearly understand that these impurities do not add quality to the final drink.

It is mistakenly believed that the so-called “pervak” is the best fraction of moonshine. However, it is not. The first drops of moonshine intoxicate faster and have a more pronounced smell, but the reason for this is the poisons contained in the “pervak” in large quantities.

If the alcohol is not pure enough, you can distill it again and subject it to additional filtration. Carbon, manganese, and silver filters are used as filters. Of course, after such purification, another distillation will be required. The purer the alcohol, the better the resulting product.

“Heads” make up approximately five percent of the total expected volume, and “tails” make up about the same amount. The strength of the fraction that is necessary to make cognac should be forty percent. When distilled again, the strength will increase and it will be necessary to dilute the product. For greater accuracy, an alcohol meter is used when making cognac alcohol; it is needed to determine the strength of the future drink.

Technology

The technology for producing cognac at home is not a very tricky business, but it requires patience and care. After pure cognac alcohol was isolated from dry wine, the result was simply moonshine. In order to turn it into cognac, you will need to carry out a couple more operations.

Next, the resulting alcohol is aged. Traditionally, cognac is aged in oak barrels at a certain temperature. During the blending process, the drink is enriched with oxygen, aroma, and acquires color and characteristic taste.

Cognac alcohol, as already mentioned, is colorless and practically odorless. In a barrel it acquires its aroma, is aged and refined. The longer the drink has been at this stage of preparation, the better quality it is considered. This judgment is completely justified, since it is then that cognac turns from ordinary moonshine into that very noble drink.

Many manufacturers neglect or are careless about this stage, producing “elite cognac”. Brands often suffer precisely because of poor aging, resulting in a bad drink.

Barrel for blending

The cognac manufacturer often saves on this important element, as a result of which the corresponding result is obtained at the output. There are certain requirements for a barrel for aging, from which you cannot deviate.

Before using the barrel for its intended purpose, water is first poured into it for two to three weeks. This causes the wood to swell, and the boards of the barrel fit tightly together, leaving no gaps. After that, alcohol is poured into the barrel and kept there for twenty days.

All joints are filled with paraffin, and the wood itself is treated with drying oil. Metal is not allowed inside the barrel, as it will certainly oxidize. For this reason, all metal elements are excluded, including taps and plugs.

Blending at home

Oak barrels for cognac are a key element of the classic recipe. However, this is a classic technology. Now lovers of this business have learned to greatly speed up the blending process and even do without a barrel altogether.

Homemade cognac is usually aged in enamel or glass containers with the addition of oak chips or shavings. In addition, other elements are added to homemade cognac. Cloves, ginger, honey, chocolate, nutmeg and much, much more are used.

Other elements are added for taste and smell. Of course, it all depends on taste and personal preference.

How to make cognac at home?

Now there are a great many different recipes and tips, but the classics remain timeless.

The basis is often not even cognac alcohol itself, but ordinary alcohol diluted to forty degrees or just vodka. For three liters you will need three tablespoons of oak bark, shavings or chips. You can buy them at a pharmacy, specialty store, or order them online.

In addition, you will need caramel. It is safest to use burnt sugar. A pinch of vanilla, a couple of clove buds and a few grams of nutmeg. All this must be placed in a glass or enamel container, mixed well with a non-metallic spoon and left for at least a month without access to light and oxygen.

After a while, the cognac is ready for use.

A lot goes into improving the taste: walnuts, ginger, hawthorn and rosehip berries, black tea. How cognac is made is a fairly definite question, but with what is a secondary topic.

Stars

Of course, this magnificent drink is also classified according to its quality, and the highest rating is considered to be five stars. Cognac undergoes a strict evaluation, after which a verdict is given to it. How do they determine how many stars to award cognac?

The quality rating of cognac is given in the well-known stars, but few people know what they really mean. I've even heard that these stars are the assessment of connoisseurs who tasted the drink before bottling it. However, this is not the case.

The stars on the bottle indicate the age of the drink. That is, they reflect how many years the cognac was in the barrel. If there are three stars on the bottle, you can be sure that the cognac has been aged for at least three years. Four stars - at least four years, five - five.

By the way, the year is counted from the first of April. This is justified by the fact that fermented wine begins to be distilled immediately after harvesting. Thus, we can say that the real age of the alcohol in the bottle is even slightly older than indicated on the label.

Over the years of aging, the drink becomes more and more enriched in taste, aroma, density and fullness. So we can safely say: the more stars, the better.

Cost of quality alcohol

Standing in front of a shop window, you involuntarily find yourself faced with a choice: sacrifice quality or money. There is an opinion that truly good cognac is priceless, but without fanaticism, how much does good cognac cost?

The cost is also usually based on the years the drink has been aged. The shortest maturity period is three years. This drink has a bitter aftertaste, is slightly harsh and may leave a not-so-good aftertaste. Russian cognac factories usually use a little trick, “tinting” the taste of cognac with sugar. The cost of such a drink usually fluctuates around three hundred rubles per seven hundred milliliters.

A better quality drink that has five stars and is aged for at least five years will be more expensive. It has a more pleasant aroma, mild taste, and contains fewer chemical additives. For the same volume you will have to pay at least 700-800 rubles.

In addition to the average price tags, it is worth remembering about excise margins, store margins, etc. So the cost can vary quite a bit. In addition, each manufacturer can set its own price for brandy or cognac. By the way, what's the difference?

Brandy and cognac

Which drink is called brandy, and which can proudly be called cognac?

In fact, real cognac is made only in its homeland: in France in the province of Cognac. There, the copyright prohibited manufacturers from calling a drink made in other places cognac and suggested replacing the name with “brandy.”

That is, any drink not made in France cannot be called cognac. However, the names of the cognacs are not very different from each other and it is rare to see a bottle labeled “brandy”.

Consumer culture

Traditionally, cognac is served with meat dishes. A cognac glass is a low container on a short stem, with a wide bottom and narrowing upward. It is customary to warm the drink in your hand.

One of the main quality criteria is smell. First, the alcohol is heated in the palm of the hand, holding the glass not by the stem, but by the base, enjoying the aroma of the drink and only then drinking.

The second most valuable taste quality is the aftertaste that cognac leaves. Good alcohol leaves behind a slight bitterness, a pleasant warmth, and spreads gently over the body.

A glass of cognac will be a pleasant addition to dinner or a friendly conversation, it will succinctly dilute the evening and bring into it an atmosphere of warmth and trust.

Worth remembering

Cognac is a special drink with its own atmosphere and mood. No matter how different the names of cognacs, brands, brands, recipes are, there is something special in homemade cognac. Making good alcohol is almost an art, if not in its purest form. And such art has many fans.

With years of practice and experience, a true connoisseur already develops recipes and certain proportions that suit his taste. But the first time you try it, you should be careful during the cooking process.

As a rule, when a person gets down to business for the first time, it is customary to rely on already proven recipes, without reinventing the wheel, and only then, having tried it, make adjustments.

It is also important to remember that alcohol is addictive and drinking alcohol in excessive doses is dangerous to health.

Cognac, prepared independently at home, can be a wonderful addition to a festive feast. This drink turns out rich and tart. It is best to use grape alcohol as the basis for homemade cognac, which can be obtained by distilling grape wine through a moonshine still. If this is not possible, then regular vodka can be used as a base. It is also better to prepare oak shavings yourself by planing them with a plane. It is important that the oak board is not impregnated with anything. How to make cognac at home, we will consider in this article.

Real cognac recipe

An oak barrel should be used for preparation.

Compound:

1. Squeeze the juice from wine grapes and introduce yeast. Leave to ferment for 1 month in an enamel bowl in a cool place.
2. After a month, distill the fermented juice through a moonshine still.
3. Pour the alcohol into an oak barrel and store it in the cellar for at least 1 year. The cellar must have good air circulation and a temperature of 11-17 C°.

The longer the drink is infused, the better its taste.

Homemade cognac recipe

To prepare you will need:

Heat the sugar in a frying pan until it reaches a caramel color. Place all dry ingredients in a 3-liter jar pre-scalded with boiling water. Fill the container with alcohol to the neck. Stir the mixture, close the lid and leave for 1 month in conditions without access to light.

Homemade cognac made from grape juice

Grape juice is used as the basis for preparation, to which alcohol is added.

• 2 liters of natural grape juice.
• A bottle of strong dark beer.
• A bottle of vodka.
• 100 grams of natural dark chocolate.

Mix grape juice and beer in a three-liter jar. Leave in a cool place for 2 weeks, covered. After 2 weeks, add vodka and grated chocolate. Infuse the drink for 1.5 months in a cellar.

Quick cognac

Components:

• 0.5 liters of vodka or grape alcohol.
• Black allspice pea.
• Bay leaf.
• 0.5 teaspoon of black leaf tea.
• 2 tablespoons sugar.
• A pinch of vanillin.

Pour alcohol into an enamel pan, add all the dry ingredients and bring to 75-80 C° over heat. Leave the cognac under the closed lid until it cools completely. The resulting drink must be filtered and bottled. After five days, the product is ready for use.

Cognac recipe with milk

Ingredients:

• Moonshine - 3 liters.
• Milk – 200 grams.
• Instant coffee 50 grams.
• Nutmeg – 0.5 teaspoon.

Pour moonshine into a glass container, add milk. It will immediately curl up, but you don’t need to pay attention to this. Dilute the coffee with warm water and pour into the solution. Then add all the spices, stir thoroughly and infuse the cognac for 20 days, stirring occasionally. Strain the finished drink and pour into bottles.

Cognac "Oak"

Pour oak bark into liter jars, filling them almost completely. Pour the contents with moonshine and add 1 tablespoon of sugar per jar. Store in a dark place for 3 months. This version of the drink, prepared at home, will taste and smell very much like real aged cognac.

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It has long gained popularity among lovers of strong drinks. This alcohol has a bright taste, rich aroma and amber color. Although the historical birthplace of the drink is France, today it is also produced in other countries. However, what cognac is made from and the technology for its production remain unchanged.

Story

France is a country of vineyards. It also became the birthplace of cognac, which is made from special grape varieties. The history of “wine vodka,” as cognac is sometimes called, began during the Roman conquest of the Gauls. In Ancient Rome, they also grew grapes and produced wine, but it was very different in quality from the products made on French lands.

The Gauls were already active in wine production, so the Romans cut down most of the vineyards in the conquered territory so that local wine could not compete with imperial products. There are only a few vineyards left in France, including in the province of Poitou on the picturesque banks of the Charente River. The city of Cognac was also located here. The lands in this place were fertile, and therefore the best quality was produced. Ships from neighboring states came there to fill their holds with barrels of French wine.

However, by the 16th century, Poitou began to produce such quantities of wine that its quality dropped sharply. The sailors did not transport the drink to their destination, as it quickly spoiled. Only a century later, French winemakers came up with the idea of ​​distilling wine, as pharmacists and alchemists did to obtain medicinal alcohol. Local craftsmen designed a special distillation apparatus. Now winemakers received cognac alcohol that did not spoil during transportation. A few years later, double distillation technology was discovered.

The French learned that “wine vodka” improves its taste when stored for a long time during the war with the British at the beginning of the 18th century. Sea trade routes were blocked, so the alcoholic drink was stored in oak barrels in the city cellars. Later, residents of the city of Cognac were surprised at how tasty the drink became. Since then, the alcoholic drink has been aged only in oak barrels.

How the best drinks in the world are made

Only producers of the city of the same name in France and some areas of the Charente department have the right to produce cognac. Cognac production there is carried out according to ancient technologies using distillation cubes designed according to the models of the first devices.

To make the drink, grapes grown on special plantations with calcareous soils are used. The climate should not be dry and cold. Not every variety is suitable for production, since cognac is made only from those varieties of grapes that produce colorless juice. Most often these are white and pink species. Suitable varieties are:

• Ugny blanc;
• Folle blanche;
• Colombard;
• Motil;
• Semillon.

These varieties will be ripe by October, when the vine harvest begins. The fruits, along with the seeds, are immediately sent under the press to obtain the wort. After several weeks of fermentation, producers obtain grape wine. It is sent for secondary distillation. To produce 1 liter of cognac, about 10 liters of grape wine is required, since it produces 3 fractions at the output. For further production, only the 2nd fraction with optimal strength (70%), taste and aroma is used.

At the beginning of April, the drink is poured into oak barrels. Much attention is paid to the container in which the drink is stored. To store cognac, barrels are made from old wood. The design of their fastening does not use nails or other metal parts that can spoil the taste of the drink. Barrels are stored at a temperature of +15°C. “Wine vodka” must be aged for at least 3 years.

The French are no less proud of the strong drink than they are of wine. They are picky about the technology of its production, starting with the conditions for growing raw materials. The French believe that the slightest violation of the rules for making the drink leads to a deterioration in its quality. However, “wine vodka” is produced today in many countries.

Ingredients and production technology in Russia

European legislation prohibits the use of the name “cognac” to label spirits produced outside the Charente department. If manufacturers from other countries use this word, they are required to add the name of the place of production to it. Therefore, on store shelves you can find “Russian cognac”, “Armenian cognac”, etc.

Not all cognac grape varieties can be grown in Russian climatic conditions. Therefore, other grape varieties are used to make the drink in Russia: Aligote, Plavai, Kleret, Rkatsitele, etc.

Technology-wise, cognac production in Russia also has its own characteristics. The Russian product is distinguished by the golden color of the liquid. This color is achieved through the use of ionized water, sugar syrup, natural colors and fragrant alcohols in production. These same components give the Russian drink an original aroma.

However, in Russia only a few factories can boast of high-quality products. These are the Derbent, Kizlyar and Novokubansky cognac factories. Other manufacturers supply the market with low-quality products or outright fakes. The production of cognac at such enterprises has been put on stream.

Making cognac at home

You don’t need to go to France to get a good product, as many drink lovers make cognac at home. There are many grape varieties suitable for making “wine vodka”. The main thing is to follow the technology.

The grapes are separated from the branches and crushed together with the seeds. The fruits are not even washed so as not to remove wild yeast from the surface. Granulated sugar is added to the mass and sent to a fermentation container for 4-5 days. Foam from the surface must be removed.

Then the mass is filtered, bottled and covered with a rubber glove. The liquid is again sent for fermentation in a warm, dark place. This stage takes up to 8 weeks. Afterwards, the liquid must be driven through the moonshine still 2 times.

How to distinguish a stellar drink from a fake

It is believed that you should not choose cognac as a gift if you do not understand alcohol, as you may end up with a fake. To make a surrogate, they use not wine alcohol, but simple alcohol. The drink is not aged in oak barrels, as this is time-consuming and expensive, but is stored in simpler containers. In order for the liquid to acquire the characteristic cognac color and aroma, flavorings and dyes are added to it.

However, you don’t need to know everything about cognac to choose a quality product. First of all, you should look at the price. A liter of a young product cannot cost less than 500 rubles. The cost of an aged drink is higher. Information about aging is printed on the branded label.

Manufacturers prefer to bottle their products in intricately shaped bottles. The cap on the bottle always sits tightly, the label is tightly glued, and a tax stamp is applied on top of it. If these conditions are not met, the product may be counterfeit.

Be sure to read the ingredients. A drink that contains flavorings or ethyl alcohol is of poor quality. If you turn the bottle over, the aged cognac will not flow down the walls. After uncorking the bottle, the liquid should not smell of alcohol. The counterfeit product may also have a vanilla scent. This is how unscrupulous manufacturers cover up the smell of alcohol.

Cognac is a drink that many people love, but not everyone knows how to drink correctly. “Culinary Eden”, of course, is not Chip and Dale, but still rushes to the rescue. This material contains the history of cognac, a few words about the technology of its production and, of course, the basic rules of drinking.

Where is cognac made?

It is unlikely that it will be a big surprise for anyone to learn that cognac comes from France. You, our readers, are undoubtedly aware of this. As well as the fact that the name of the drink comes from the name of the town - Cognac, located in the South-Western part of France, 120 km north of Bordeaux, in the Poitou-Charentes region.

It all started with wine. The “Vineyards of Poitou”, created on the orders of the Count of Poitiers, have been known since the 12th century. Dutch ships visited the town of Cognac, transporting salt and wine made from grapes grown in the vineyards of Poitou from France to the countries of Northern Europe. Gradually, due to good demand for wines, the vineyard area is expanding significantly. In the 16th century, there was even a crisis of overproduction of wine; its quality dropped. It becomes problematic to transport low-quality wine to its destination - Northern Europe. Then the savvy Dutch begin to distill wine using stills - the distillate easily endures the long sea voyage. However, gradually local residents master distillation themselves and even improve the process - for the first time they perform double distillation. It turns out by chance that wine distillate becomes better if you keep it in oak barrels. Moreover, it turns out that it can be drunk undiluted (usually, after delivery to the destination, the wine distillate was diluted with water). Actually, this is how cognac appeared.

In 1936, cognac was recognized as a drink controlled by the Appellation of Origin (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée). Before this, the geographical marking of cognac production zones was carried out. Nowadays, only a drink born in six French districts of the Charente region: Grande Champagne, Petit Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires ) can proudly be called "Cognac". All other similar drinks, even French ones, but from other regions - “Brandy”. For the Armenian, Georgian, Azerbaijani, Dagestan, and Moldavian alcoholic drinks known to you and me, obtained by distilling grape wines, the name “cognac” can only be applied on the domestic market, but never on the international market (they are also “Brandy” there).

Today, all “cognac” issues in France are in charge of the “National Interprofessional Bureau of Cognac”. This most authoritative organization can be considered both a trade union of cognac producers and a control body; it often resolves disputes that arise.

How is cognac made?

Next - a few words about cognac production technology. October is coming. White grapes are being harvested. Usually this is the “Ugni Blanc” variety (in 90% of cases it is this variety). In addition, for the production of cognac, the Colombard, Folle Blanche and Monthil varieties are also used, but to a much lesser extent - they are less resistant to disease and are more difficult to grow, although alcohols from these varieties are more aromatic and have a richer flavor palette.

After harvesting, the juice is immediately squeezed out of the grapes. And this is done carefully - the bones should not be crushed. Special presses are used for this. Then the juice is sent for fermentation. Adding sugar during fermentation is strictly prohibited by law. After three weeks, those wines with an alcohol content of 9% and high acidity are distilled.

The distillation stage for real cognac is strictly regulated (as, indeed, are all other stages of its production). Only certain equipment is used (the so-called “Charente still”), all the characteristics and design features of which are described in the relevant documents.

Distillation occurs in two stages. Firstly, raw alcohol is obtained. Its strength ranges from 27 to 32%. But this is not cognac yet. Secondly, the resulting alcohol is sent for re-distillation. It is its result that is high-quality (if everything is done without violating technology) cognac alcohol with a strength of 62-72%. It is this that is poured into oak barrels so that, after spending a certain time in them, it becomes real cognac.

By the way, for alcohol to really turn into cognac, he will have to spend at least two years in the “oak prison”. This is, according to French law, the minimum possible period. Naturally, you can keep him “in captivity” and more. The production rules do not limit the maximum period. However, long-term observations have shown that aging grape spirit in oak barrels for more than 70 years is pointless: it will not affect the taste of the final product.

Special mention must be made about the oak barrels in which cognac spirit is aged. They are made only from tree trunks that are at least 80 years old, growing not just anywhere, but only in some forests. This scrupulousness is explained by the fact that “sorcerer oaks” suitable for “correct” barrels must have a certain wood structure. During the manufacturing process, the inside of the barrel is always fired. The degree of firing varies depending on the manufacturer's requirements. Firing is needed to soften the structure of the wood and increase the extractive capabilities of the wood. Note that as a result of firing, a layer of burnt sugar appears on the inner surface of the barrel. Having filled the barrels (their capacity is usually from 270 to 450 liters) with grape alcohol, they are sent to the “cellars” - to “ripen”.

During aging with alcohol, various metamorphoses occur. Some of it generally evaporates through the wood pores. As a result, the walls of the storage facility are usually black - microscopic torula compniacensis mushrooms literally grow on them. And what remains in the barrel absorbs tannins from the wood, reducing sugar, lingin (this is a complex polymer compound, it is present in wood). In addition, the tree releases amino acids, volatile acids and oils, lipids, resins, and various enzymes. The color of the alcohol changes - to golden, and over time to dark golden. The aroma becomes woody-vanilla, and other shades gradually appear: spices, flowers, fruits.

Naturally, the condition of cognac (and this is almost it) in barrels is controlled by “specially trained people.” When such a “cognac master” decides that the drink is already sufficiently “developed”, it is poured from barrels into large glass bottles. They are stored in them for some time - in the far corner of the “cellar”. Moreover, the shelf life can be tens of years. In professional terminology, the place where these bottles are located is referred to as “Paradise” (Paradis).

The final stage of cognac production is mixing cognac spirits of different ages. The aging of the resulting cognac is determined according to the minimum aging period of the components. So-called millizime cognacs are also produced. They must indicate the specific age of aging, as well as the year in which the grapes were harvested.

How to determine the age of cognac?

Of course - look at the bottle. It's all written on the label. French cognacs are labeled as follows:

• V.S. (Very Special), Selection, de Luxe, Trois Etoiles - aged for at least 2 years;
• Superior - aged for at least 3 years;
• V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale), V.O. (Very Old), Vieux, Reserve - aged for at least 4 years;
• V.V.S.O.P. (Very Very Superior Old Pale), Grande Reserve - aged for at least 5 years;
• X.O. (Extra Old), Extra, Napoleon, Royal, Tres Vieux, Vieille Reserve - aged for at least 6 years.

These are examples of only the main markings that can be found on bottles of French cognac. Of course, there are several more of them than are listed here. Cognacs older than 6.5 years are not classified, because, according to experts, it is not possible to control their blending.

The classification of Armenian cognacs is simpler. They are ordinary, vintage and collectible. The famous stars on the label indicate how many years the cognac spirit spent in the barrel, that is, about aging. But the stars are typical specifically for ordinary Armenian cognacs. For example, if there are five of them on the label, it is cognac made from spirits aged for at least five years. If the alcohol is aged for less than three years, only cognac can be made from it. Vintage cognacs have letter designations. So, if you see the inscription “KV” it means “Aged Cognac”. On average, at least six years. "KVVK" - "Aged Cognac of the Highest Quality." This marking is for a drink made from alcohols aged for at least eight years. The alcohol from which Old Cognac is made - KS - languishes in barrels for ten years. The marking “OS” means that the cognac is “Very Old” - the alcohol for its production was in “oak captivity” for at least 20 years. Armenian cognacs additionally aged in barrels or bottles for at least three years are considered collectible. Actually, the “Armenian classification” is also used by other manufacturers of the former USSR.

How to drink cognac correctly?

We sorted out the markings on the labels. In the finale - cognac etiquette: basic postulates.

Cognac (no matter whether it is French, Armenian or Dagestan) is always a digestif. At least, in the Western European tradition. The French have a famous rule for drinking cognac - the rule of three “Cs”: café, cognac, cigare (coffee, cognac, cigar). First they usually drink coffee, then cognac, and then smoke a cigar. Smoking a cigar, and especially a cigarette, while drinking cognac is bad form.

However, Americans and Russians, as always, go their own way. Cognac was no exception. In the New World they also drink it as an aperitif, diluting it with tonic and mixing it with Martini vermouth. Fortunately, these are usually not old cognacs (usually V.S or V.S.O.P.).

In Russia, it is customary to enjoy cognac with lemon. If you believe the legend, the founder of this tradition was Emperor Nicholas I, who, having once tasted French cognac, found it too strong. His Imperial Majesty had nothing “at hand” except a lemon. And so it went. The sovereign liked it - he taught the courtiers to snack on cognac with lemon. Gradually the tradition spread. However, it never went beyond the Russian Empire, and later the USSR and the CIS. Nowhere in the world do they drink cognac with lemon anymore. The fact is that the strong, sharp taste of citrus completely kills the subtle aroma of cognac, drowns out the taste, aftertaste... In general, everything for which they drink cognac is sacrificed to the dubious pleasure of eating a piece of lemon. This “barbaric”, according to most Europeans, way of drinking cognac is still called: “a la Nicholas”.

As for the manner of consumption itself, cognac is, so to speak, a leisurely drink. It is customary to warm it up by holding the glass in your hand for a long time, and slowly sipping it in small sips during a friendly conversation or during a romantic date. In a calm atmosphere, savor, enjoy the range of tastes, and not “slam” in one gulp. When serving, cognac should be at a temperature slightly above room temperature.

They don't drink cognac from glasses. Or rather, they drink, but only alcoholics who don’t care. They also drink it from plastic cups. But let's not talk about sad things. Nowadays there are two main types of cognac glasses. First of all, it is a sniffer (from English to sniff - to sniff). This glass can hold up to 840 ml of cognac (naturally, less capacious specimens are mostly common). But you should always pour cognac only to the widest part of the sniffer. The bowl of the glass has a spherical shape, tapering towards the top. The leg is short. Actually, the sniffer is considered a classic cognac glass. It is called so because it is customary to sniff cognac - the narrowed upper part of the glass contributes to this. Plus the spherical shape - it is convenient to hold such a glass with your hand directly by the bowl and warm the cognac. In France, you will most likely be served cognac in a sniffer.

Another option, perhaps no less popular today, is a glass that is shaped like a tulip bud. It also tapers at the top. The stem of the “tulip” is long. They hold a similar glass just by it, like a wine glass. This makes it more convenient to rotate it, distributing the cognac along the walls of the bowl so that it “breathes” oxygen. In principle, which glass to drink cognac from: from a sniffer or from a “tulip” - depends on individual preferences.

Store a bottle of cognac in an upright position. The drink should not come into contact with the stopper. If you haven’t drunk enough cognac and it remains in the bottle, then it is better to pour it into a glass container of smaller volume, always with a lid: long contact with air is harmful to cognac.

That, in fact, is all we wanted to tell you about cognac. It seems that “Culinary Eden” has coped with its main task - to introduce you to the main milestones in the history of the drink, the technology of its production and the main rules of use.

Do you know that Cognac is a village? True, very rich and famous throughout the world. And all thanks to Kupitman’s favorite drink of gourmets and aesthetes, named after her and a symbol of elegance, taste and success.

Cognac. A noble cocktail of color, aroma and taste, which is created over many years in damp cellars among barrels darkened by time... Some drinks go an incredibly long way before splashing out into a glass glass and presenting their unique aroma to a true connoisseur. But when taking a sip of cognac, many do not even think that the person who once poured alcohol into a young barrel for him is most likely no longer alive...

The cognac production process is very long, painstaking and labor-intensive. And all in order to create one of the most noble drinks in the world. So, how are the world's best French cognacs made?

Photos and text by Sergei Anashkevich. First let's define the terms. What is the Cognac region, which so zealously protects the right to use its name, and what is it eaten with? Cognac has 6 subregions (appellations), the boundaries of which are strictly defined. Cognac spirits of each subregion have their own distinctive characteristics. For example, cognac produced from grapes harvested in Grande Champagne has a light, delicate aroma with dominant floral tones, and on the soils of the Borderie, rich in clay and silicon, vineyards grow that produce beautiful round and soft cognacs with pronounced tones of violets. Using these features when mixing allows cognac masters to achieve certain properties of the final product. In order for a drink to be called Cognac, it must be produced from grape spirits grown only in these subregions. The subregions are called:

• Grande Champagne (Grand Champagne) or Grand Fine Champagne (Grand Fin Champagne)
• Petite Champagne or Fine Petite Champagne
• Borderies
• Fins Bois
• Bons Bois
• Bois ordinaires (Bois Ordinaire).

The subregions Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne and Borderies are considered the best, but this does not mean that spirits produced from grapes from other subregions are much inferior in quality. By the way, most well-known brands of cognac contain cognac spirits from several subregions at once.

Yes, don’t be confused by “Champagne”, in this case it has nothing to do with the Champagne region. The word "champagne" comes from the Latin Campania and means "plain", "agricultural area" and "calcareous soil". This is how regions similar in name, but completely different in terms of the product produced there, appeared - this name is equally applied to the Champagne region (where champagne is made) and to the Grande Champagne region (where cognac is made).

2. Not any wine is suitable for the production of cognac. The best results are obtained when distilling wine made from grapes containing a minimum amount of sugar, harvested slightly earlier than for wine. The main grape variety used to produce cognac is called Ugni Blanc. This variety is grown in 98% of the region's vineyards. Authorized varieties also include Colombard and Folle Blanche. Of the new varieties, they are experimenting with Folignan (a hybrid of Ugni Blanc and Folle Blanche). Ugni Blanc has been growing on American vine rootstock since the late 19th century, when phylloxera killed almost all the vineyards in the region and throughout France. The American vine is resistant to phylloxera, and Ugni Blanc takes root better than others on American rootstock. In Italy, the Ugni Blanc variety is called Trebbiano, and there they make white wine from this variety. The vines are planted at intervals of 3 meters to expose them to the sun as much as possible. Harvest once a year - in early October. Some vineyard owners harvest grapes by hand, but most use machine harvesting to speed up the process as much as possible. The harvested grapes are immediately pressed in traditional flat horizontal presses. The resulting juice is left to ferment without adding sugar. The initial process is absolutely identical to the process of producing white wine.

3. And then there’s white wine. begin to turn into cognac. But first they make moonshine from it. After three weeks, the already young dry wine Blanc de Blanc (about 8% alcohol) is sent for distillation (according to the Charente method, which has come down to us unchanged), where it goes through two stages of boiling, as a result of which cognac alcohol appears.

The double distillation process is a very complex one. In the first stage, unfiltered white wine is brought to a boil, alcohol vapor rises to the top of the distiller's bell, passes through a tube and condenses in the cooling system.

4. This is how raw alcohol is obtained (in French - brouillis). Its strength is usually 27-32%.

6. At the second stage, their raw alcohol during secondary distillation produces a base high quality cognac spirit(French bonne chauffe). It is here, at the second stage of distillation, that the experience and skill of the “master distiller” is fully revealed, who is responsible for the correct selection of the first, second and third fractions of the distillate. It is the second fraction, with a strength of 68-72% alcohol, that goes into further aging in oak barrels and becomes cognac.

7. At this stage, the work of a distillation specialist is extremely important, because in the process of the second distillation it is necessary to be able to cut off the middle fraction - the so-called “heart” - from the primary and tertiary fractions, called the “head” and “tail”.

8. It is interesting that all large cognac houses use not only their own alcohols obtained in their distilleries, but also alcohols from many small alcohol producers. As a rule, these are small farms that have a closed alcohol production cycle: their own vineyard, fermentation equipment, and stills. Cognac houses cooperate with them on a long-term basis, constantly monitoring the quality of the supplied alcohols.

Many private distilleries use old vintage equipment that is many decades old. This does not affect the quality of the alcohol in any way, and the main thing here is the hand of the distillation master.

11. By the way, several types are usually used secondary distillation. According to the first, the wine is distilled in tandem with the tail fractions, which ensures a fuller bouquet of cognac. The second method is based on the distillation of alcohol in a mixture with head and tail fractions. By law, distillation of alcohol ends on March 31 and from that moment the aging of cognac begins. He is sent to cognac houses.

12. Even the dog is interested that we spend so much time photographing and recording in the closet where his owner is constantly cooking something. Eh, dog... You don’t know that cognac starts from here.

13. The starting point for aging cognac is considered April 1st every year. The alcohol is poured into oak barrels of varying capacities and left for several years. The future cognac is stored in special cellars where constant air temperature and humidity are maintained.

Very often, cognac cellars are located on the banks of the Charente River, because There is high humidity here, which is so important for proper aging of the drink. The natural dampness where the barrels are stored is one of the determining factors in the aging process.

14. Cognac spirit is kept in oak barrels, usually 350 liters, at a constant temperature of 15°, where it can mature from 2 to 50 years. During this time, cognac alcohol loses some of its strength, and oak gives the drink an amber color and pleasant shades of taste. The substances extracted from oak by cognac are called dry extracts. The transition of the natural qualities of oak develops the bouquet of cognac, producing a special taste known as rancio.

Extract of cognac spirits consists of three stages: extraction (penetration of wood components into alcohol), hydrolysis (change in properties and preparation for “digestion of wood”) and oxidation (color becomes richer, new notes of taste appear).

The cognac spirit is aged in barrels made exclusively from oak, traditionally grown in the Limousin and Tronçais forests. The craftsmen of Charente have long recognized the unique quality of this wood. The Tronçais forest, located in the Allier region, supplies coopers (barrel makers) with soft, fine-grained wood of ideal porosity, and the Limousin forest provides medium-grained and durable wood (I will talk about the production of barrels separately).

15. The quality and strength of the drink directly depend on the aging period. In fact, the timing determines the eliteness of cognac. For primary aging, barrels are used for no more than five years. At this stage, a significant part of the cognac spirits will be selected, assembled and bottled, going to store shelves with VS and VSOP labels.

Only the best spirits will remain in the cellars, continuing to age. It is from these that cognacs of the highest categories will be made - XO, Napoleon, Richard, etc. (special categories differ for each manufacturer).

16. All the time while the cognac is in the barrel, absorbing all the best from the oak, developing its most refined tastes, it is constantly in contact with the air and gradually loses a small amount of cognac alcohol, which is called the “share of the angels”. Experts say that every year 2-3% of alcohol evaporates from each barrel through the pores.

Alcohol fumes settle on the walls. Here they feed on a special “drunk” mold, which is why the walls in cognac cellars are always black.

19. When the cognac, according to the expert, reaches the peak of aging, it is placed in an old barrel, where it “rests”. Old barrels no longer contribute anything to the drink and practically do not change it.

If the cognac, in the opinion of the “cellar master,” reaches the peak of its development, it is poured from barrels into glass bottles, the so-called “dames-Jeanne” (French Dames-Jeanne), sealed and placed in the most remote place of the cellar, where they can be stored for decades and even centuries without changes. This is a special place in the cellar, which is called Paradise (French: Paradis).

20. The most important stage in making cognac is mixing cognacs with different characteristics. This is done by a specially trained person, in the jargon of winemakers he is called Bouquet Master. How cognac is made determines its taste, status and labeling. But in any case, you can recognize a good cognac from a thousand, because its aroma and tart strong taste will be remembered for a long time.

21. Based on several aged alcohols, it is made assemblage and reduction. Assembly - mixing alcohols (eau-de-vie), reduction - gradual, very careful dilution with water (since alcohol and water are very polar, their rapid mixing can lead to injury to the resulting cognac, distortion of its aroma and taste). Often reduced with alcoholic waters rather than plain water. Alcoholized waters - febles (faibles) or small waters (petites eaux) - mixed alcohol and water, about 15-20% strength.

Why is water added? So that the strength of the drink meets the established parameters.

Also, at the assembly stage, sugar and caramel can be added to cognac. This is officially allowed. Although caramelization is not particularly welcomed as a cheap way to achieve a certain taste, and it is usually applied to the most inexpensive brands of cognac - VS.

In the photo you can see how cognacs with different aging periods differ. The lighter the drink, the younger it is...

22. The production of cognac at all stages is very strictly regulated and controlled. No experiments are allowed - even if the cognac is not intended for sale.

Now about the notation. There are regulated traditional designations for the minimum aging period of cognac. They are divided into the following main categories:

V.S. - aged for at least two years.
V.S.O.P., Reserve - aged for at least four years.
V.V.S.O.P., Grande Reserve - at least five years.
X.O, Napoleon - aged for at least six years.

It should be borne in mind that for blends (mixtures of different alcohols) the youngest alcohol is always indicated. It is also interesting that different manufacturers may use standard designations to mean significantly longer shutter speeds than the minimum. For example, some small cognac houses X.O. is a thirty-year-old cognac, and, for example, V.S. - twelve years old.

23. About 20 thousand cognac houses are registered in the Cognac region. (So ​​cognac is not only Courvoisier, Hennessy, Martell, Rémy Martin and Camus)

However, in reality there are now approximately 5,000 manufacturers left in the region, but only 12 of them have a full cycle!!! The rest carry out a certain stage of production. Some only distill alcohol, while others only aging, assembling and bottling cognac under their own brand.

24. How to drink cognac correctly?

As a rule, it is drunk as an aperitif or, conversely, as a digestif. Cognac has also been increasingly used in cocktails in recent years, with some manufacturers having brands specifically designed for cocktails.

The best accompaniment for cognac is coffee, cigar and chocolate. As a snack Various sweet dishes (for example, apple charlotte) and fruits also go well.

About the lemon. Don't ask the French about lemon in relation to cognac! Lemon is the worst appetizer for cognac, completely killing its taste. This fashion came from Nicholas II, who hated the taste of cognac, but was forced to drink it out of etiquette. Then he actually saved himself with lemon, instantly neutralizing the taste of the drink. In Soviet times, the tradition of sipping cognac with lemon, as well as storing the drink in the refrigerator, spread everywhere and is sometimes found even in our time...

So drink the right cognac from the right tulip glasses with the right accompaniments...

Regarding the right cognac glasses

Until recently, the correct glass of cognac was actually considered to be a bottle (No. 1), and it was customary to drink Armagnac from a tulip (No. 12). But several years ago, the organization BNIC (National Interprofessional Bureau of Cognac), which unites all cognac producers, made a decision with expert opinion about using a tulip (No. 12) as a glass for drinking cognac instead of a bottle.

This decision was due to the following reason: the shape of the tulip allows you to feel all the aromatics of the drink due to the fact that the narrow shape of the neck prevents alcohol from actively evaporating. A wider bottle neck, on the contrary, promotes active evaporation of alcohol, which makes it difficult to appreciate the aroma, sometimes literally “punching” a person in the nose, which is why many accused many brands of cognac of increased alcohol content.

So now in France and around the world it is customary to drink cognac from small narrow “tulips”...